The Coeur d’Alene River Basin in Idaho has earned its nickname as “The Silver Valley.” Since the late 19th century over 140 million tons of ore have been mined and processed from the surrounding mountains, including silver, zinc, and lead. Mine waste was often dumped directly into the Coeur d’Alene River, which in turn flows into the scenic Coeur d’Alene Lake and eventually into the Spokane River in Washington. The effects of contamination stretch about 166 miles, creating the nation’s second largest superfund site in 1983, and introducing complex problems to diverse groups of people in the basin.

Though many companies have mined in the valley, the biggest contributor to the pollution was the Bunker Hill Company. Though attitudes toward pollution differed greatly in the 1930s from views today, the terrible effects of waste disposal from the Bunker Hill mine were already indisputable. One local paper reported in 1934 that just 20 years prior to the Coeur d’Alene River measured 60 feet deep in one section, but now was reduced to a depth of just two feet because “it has been filled up with mine slimes” and has led to a “concerning number of dead fish and lead” in the river. Some measures were taken to curb pollution then, but it wasn’t until the nationwide environmental movement began in the 1960s and 1970s that regulations were enacted. Towns where much of the ore was processed, namely Kellogg and Smelterville, are the easiest to identify the negative effects of the dumping.

“You had the taste of metal in your teeth,” one resident remembers from growing up in Kellogg. An initial study conducted by the Idaho state government found that 99% of children living in Smelterville had over 40 micrograms of lead in their blood per deciliter, when just 5 micrograms is already a serious cause for concern. Such high levels of lead are responsible for the increase in health problems among residents, mental illnesses like schizophrenia and attention deficit hyperactivity disorder. Some residents claim that the lead poisoning has created a stigma in the surrounding towns that the townspeople of Kellogg are crazy. “They call us ‘lead heads,’” remarked one former miner. Though the more prosperous people of nearby cities like Coeur d’Alene may look down on Kellogg and Smelterville, they must deal with their own effects of this environmental tragedy.

Lake Coeur d’Alene has long drawn visitors with its beautiful mountain vistas and scenic forests, but few tourists know that the lake is a repository for 75 million tons of sediment contaminated by lead, zinc, and arsenic. For now, the dangerous metals are trapped at the bottom of the lake and can’t harm those who enjoy it’s waters, though this is subject to change. Both modern forms of pollution and suggested treatment options can decrease the amount of oxygen in the lake, which would allow the metals to rise and create a toxic mess that “in other places, has shut down water supplies and caused fish die-offs.” Because of the scale of the problem, a proper clean-up is projected to take many years, however; the process has already been delayed and muddled many times because of the number of parties involved. The EPA is often at odds with the state government, which itself must deal with the conflicting opinions of local activist groups. On top of that the local Native American tribe, the Coeur d’Alene, have continuously fought to earn decision making power when it comes to protecting and cleaning the lake they have relied on for centuries. The lake was incorporated into the Bunker Hill superfund site in 2002, but the complexity of issues in the entire basin make it clear that the EPA is unequipped to effectively deal with the damage done to this beautiful area.

Despite all the unresolved problems, the Trump administration has repeatedly expressed interest in reopening mining operations at Bunker Hill, even giving one company a permit in 2018. The possibility of the Bunker Hill mine operating again creates even more divides in the surrounding communities, and could only worsen the already precarious environmental situation in the Coeur d’Alene River Basin.

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In the nineteenth century, missionaries from the Society of Jesus, also known as Jesuits, traveled to the United States to teach Catholicism to the indigenous people. While their influence was felt across the United States, the Jesuits efforts were highly impactful among the Native American tribes in the Northwest. One particular missionary, Father Jean-Pierre De Smet dedicated his life to Christianizing and educating the Nez Perce and Coeur d’Alene tribes—even learning their language. Under Father De Smet’s direction, the first mission in the Rocky Mountains, St. Mary’s, was built in present-day Montana in 1841. A few years later, in 1846, other Jesuit missionaries—Father Nicolas Point and Father Huet—began plans for a new church—this time in northern Idaho among the Coeur d’Alene Indians. However, the church they designed lasted only four years, as its location was susceptible to flooding.

In 1848, Father Anthony Ravalli began building the Church of the Sacred Heart once again. Built completely by the Native Americas, the Old Church was erected—rather famously—without using any nails. The Coeur d’Alene bored holes in the rafters and interlaced willow saplings to keep the boards together. The Jesuit missionaries then added their artistry with the flowered cloths hung on the walls, three carved and decorated altars, and a large picture of the Sacred heart that hung over the altar.

The church officially opened for services in 1852 or 1853. The Coeur d’Alene were receptive to the Jesuit missionaries. A daughter of the local chief, Louise Sighouin, was one of the first people to be baptized. Local woman suffragist May Arkwright Hutton relayed that the marriage between Louise’s adopted white daughter Mary and Louise’s biological son Antelope was the first marriage performed in the Old Church.

When the Native Americans were forced from their lands, the Old Mission of the Sacred Heart fell into disrepair. However, in 1925, efforts were undertaken to restore the church. Today, the mission still stands as evidence of the unlikely meeting of European Jesuit missionaries and Native American tribes in the nineteenth century.

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In 1877, United States General William Tecumseh Sherman went on an inspection tour throughout the west. One of his stops brought him to the banks of Lake Coeur d’Alene in northern Idaho. General Sherman fell in love with the scenery in the area and was impressed enough to suggest building a military fort there. Within a year, a military post was established following Sherman’s advice, originally taking the name of Camp Coeur d’Alene. The name was changed to Fort Coeur d’Alene in 1879, and eventually to Fort Sherman in 1887 to honor General Sherman as he retired from military duty.

While stationed at Fort Sherman, US soldiers had three major duties. They were asked to help keep the peace in northern Idaho between those settling in the area and the Native people who were attempting to retain their lands and resources. Other duties included protecting the railroad and telegraph lines, as well as protecting the Canadian border from any conflict with the province of British Columbia. Overall, the troops stationed here generally didn’t encounter much need for military interference. They were only sent out from the fort twice keep peace within northern Idaho. First, they dispatched in 1878 to fight against Bannocks in the Bannock Indian War, taking place in southern Idaho. Second, they were called to the Coeur d’Alene miner strike of 1892. The miners were fighting against the reduction of wages and increase of hours, and spurred on by the discovery union information was being passed to mine owners. The military from Fort Sherman came to aid civil authorities against the miners and prevent insurrection and violence. Both times, the troops were gone for around a month, returning back after very little conflict.

As Fort Sherman grew, the community surrounding it did as well. A hospital, school, chapel, and library were built on the fort, making it more comfortable for the soldiers and their families. Yet this expansion of the settler community threatened the land of Coeur d’Alene Indians. The tribe started to be forcibly removed prior to the building of the fort in 1873, but were officially moved in 1885 to a reservation forty miles away, on the southern tip of the lake.

Fort Sherman was officially declared abandoned in March, 1900, and the buildings and property were sold at a public auction in 1905. Today, only two of the original buildings remain, the chapel and the one of the officer’s quarters. The Fort Sherman Chapel now stands as Coeur d’Alene’s oldest church and school and is also listed on the National Register of Historical Places in order to ensure its preservation. The rest of the land bought from Fort Sherman was used to build the North Idaho College campus, instead of returning it back to the Coeur d’Alene tribe. Today, the campus is full of memorials, commemorating the settlers that removed Native people from their homes.

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